Evala is the traditional wrestling ceremony that takes place every 5 years among the Kabye of Togo. Evala is part of the male coming of age ceremony/events. The guys must catch a dog, slaughter it, prepare it and eat it. They also make hats with straw, goat hairs, and cow dung (caked on the outside of the basket that sits on their head). The guys learn the secrets of the Kabye. Only men who are initiated can eat dog. Kabye women never eat dogs. As is often the case for a Volunteer, it's never clear if we are female, male or just 'foreign' (and the rules don't apply). In this case the men allowed me to participate in some parts of the ceremony and also offered me some dog, which naturally I had to eat because it would be rude to decline the offer.